Rather than spend time setting up a new blog, I will tack on to my Porrtuguese Camino. I have packing to do.
We’re leaving home tomorrow, Merideth and I. Seattle to Tokyo. Tokyo to Hong Kong, where we’ll spend a couple of nights getting over jetlag and maybe see a few sites. Then back to Osaka where we’ll meet up with David and Libby, out lovely Australian friends.
I don’t feel ready to leave Spain. I love the people. Their language. Their warmth. I love that when you ask for directions, they don’t just point, they explain in detail making sure you understand. They see you. The directions may not always be accurate but they are kind.
Merideth left yesterday. It was an emotional goodbye to our adventure together. Hearts bond on the Camino. This has been an extraordinary time. Maybe there is more in store. I hope so. She’s on her way to her next steps. Judy and I are on our way to ours now. Paulo picked us up this morning and will take us back to Porto. Judy is leaving and I will meet a dear friend who is arriving today. We will spend some time in Braga and then in the countryside with her daughter, my goddaughter.
Everything we needed and more was provided for us along the way. Provision was laid out before us, sometimes in extraordinary ways. There is a common phrase, “The Camino Provides.” I say God provides.
Lots of activity in Santiago last night. There was a music festival over the weekend.
We walked into Santiago today, about 5:30pm. 16 miles from Padron, we taxied the middle six miles. My hamstring wouldn’t put up with walking the entire way. I am grateful for the rest days that allowed me to continue this journey.
It is heartening to see all these pilgrims here. Yes, the Camino is getting busier. Some see it as disappointing. I think it’s a good thing. People desiring to walk this far, to be alone with their thoughts, to press on even when it becomes very uncomfortable. And it does…for everyone. To meet people whose lives may not look like theirs at all, other than this common goal.
I didn’t expect it to be so emotional. I’ve been here before. But it is. The gentleman in the Pilgrim’s office who stamped my credential asked if I was going to wait another ten years before coming back. No. God willing, I will be back here again. Hopefully before too long.
A Camino is a personal, independent journey. Even if you go with someone else, it’s not easy to always stay together, keeping the same pace. Everyone has their own rhythm.
These two saints, Judy and Merideth, stayed with the slow pace of my compromised hamstring. They shortened their days, taking taxis with me when I needed it. None of us wanted to miss out on the shared experiences (and miracles, big and small) nor the deep conversations. This was truly “Our Camino.”
This morning, the 11th, I attended the Pilgrim’s Mass in the magnificent cathedral. They only have the swinging of the botafumeiro on certain holidays now so we didn’t get to witness that. It is a sight to see if you ever get a chance. The mass was in Spanish although it still gives such peace just to be there. I love communion and Catholic tradition asks that you not take communion unless you are Catholic. I respect their tradition and instead go forward for a blessing which touches me. Afterwards there was another mass in a small chapel, spoken in English. I was moved by this hymn we sang together.
Another good place to stay, this time along the water. Here we are on the balcony of our apartamente smiling at Garry and Chess, our dear new Camino friends from England who are staying on the floor below. You meet so many people from all over the world. There are always a few that are very special. Hearts bond quickly on the Camino.
The next morning we took a boat along the Rio Ulla to Pontecesures, a little port near Padron. From there, Santiago is just 16 miles. We lucked out by getting tickets for the 9:30 boat instead of the 7am. We were the envy of the other pilgrims who like to take a slow morning. Well, our boat got cancelled so we were on the 7am. No more gloating. We had to drag ourselves out early.
The boat was full of pilgrims. Some were sleeping but mostly there was excitement in the air. The boat was a tefreshing change from walking and we were getting so close to Santiago. The Variante Espiritual ends in Padron and connects with the Portuguese Central route, now one route leading to Santiago. The Variante Espiritual was probably the most beautiful part of this Camino. Also known as the “Route of Stone and Water.”
Along the river are 14 stone crosses. Here are the three most significant ones
Oh, and can you figure out how too run this washer? This was our evening’s entertainment. Try to turn it on, try everything. Then just pull up a chair and warch to see if it will eventually start to fill with water, and perhaps even spin.
It would have been quicker to use this tried and true method of washing.
We stayed at Villa Laredo, a very nice hotel. I know it sounds like it could be in Wyoming but it was just outside of Armenteira.
We weren’t near any markets or restaurants so we called a taxi and had a bit of a wild and overpriced ride to the store to get some groceries. It wasn’t our usual good experience with cab drivers.
There was this cooler full of cold drinks along a stretch where there are no bars or cafes. They just ask for a donation if you can. People do that sort of thing on the Camino. Sometimes you see liters of water sitting outside someone’s home just in case it’s needed.
The rain has let up. Dry, sunny weather is in the forecast.
We walked along the Spiritual Variant today to Combarro, a fishing village along the ria de Pontevedra. Hard to describe the charm of this place. It’s like a movie set, the place where story books and romance novels begin.
Photos taken on the walk from Pontevedra to Combarro.
Two nights in this place, another great apartamente. It’s been raining buckets. The weather is supposed to clear on Monday and we have enough time so we’re staying in town an extra day. Day 3 of no walking for me. I’ll be able to write the book on “resting” my way to Santiago. Not what I has planned but my hamstring is getting better so I think that’s the key.
We did some shopping in this great city for some necessary, and unnecessary items.
Tomorrow we start walking into the “Spiritual Variant” part of the Portuguese Way. It’s more of a climb and less populated than the regular route. This follows the route of the last part of the journey where the apostle St James’ remains were carried.
Not many pictures the last couple of days. Just trying to stay out of the rain. We were in this great little shop today. Most stores are closed on Sunday. The people here honor the Sabbath.
And there are beautiful buildings here in good repair. I just happen to like photos of the ones that are crumbling.
We stayed in a beautiful apartamente called Lar Azul. It more than made up for the last place. Judy and Merideth had a hard climb today in the pouring rain. They are ready for a rest day tomorrow which means another rest day for me.
There was a miracle today involving a glove. More to that story later. Judy will have to tell it.
We spent this night in an apartamente called Luar 2. We’ve stayed in some nice places along the way so this was a bit disappointing. Mediocre apartment across the railroad tracks from a pig processing plant. The heavy fragrance they used in the place to mask the smell just gave you a perfumed pig processing aroma.
However, we had the best burger at Fran’s Hamburgueseria. A great little restaurant with a simple menu, various kinds of burgers. Fran knows his burgers and also knows many party tricks which kept us entertained. A delightful man enjoying his work.
My hamstring is healing and feeling much better but I am taking a rest day tomorrow. It’s starting to squawk a little and I’m paying attention so it doesn’t flare up. I intend to walk into Santiago.